FIber and Biopolymer Research Institute

Last week we took two trips to the Fiber and Biopolymer Research Institute.  On the second day we learned about the various different methods used to test the strength and durability of fabrics.  There are four main methods that relate to the strength of the fabric and one method relating to the shrinkage of the fabric.

The first method in the strength process is called the Martindale Abrasion Tester.  This process “determines the abrasion resistance of the textile fabrics, or wear ability of textile fabrics” (Handout 1, pp. 1).  There are a variety of fabrics that can be used in the test such as a plain weave, crossbred, or worsted wool fabric. These fabrics are used in combination with a felt fabric, the felt is first placed on top of the abrading table and the fabric is then placed over the top. Afterwards the pressing weight is placed on top and the clamp ring is placed over the weight and locked in.  The abrasion process works “by subjecting the fabric specimen to a rubbing motion in the form of a geometric figure, a straight line, which becomes a gradually widening eclipse until it for another straight line in the opposite direction,” (Handout 1, pp. 2).

The second method shown is the Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics. This method determines the breaking force by “using either a grab sample or a raveled or cut strip sample…and determine the bursting strength of fabrics,” (Handout 2, pp. 1).  The grab test determines the strength of a fabric. However, the breaking force does not show the strength of the yarns between the clamps, only the fabric.  The “values for the breaking force and elongation test specimens are obtained from the computer, which is interlaced with the testing machine,” (Handout 2, pp. 9).

The next method is the Tearing Strength Elmendorf Method tests the “average tearing force of a specimen from the energy loss of a falling pendulum,” (Handout 3, pp. 1). This machine subjects the fabric to a “real-life” scenario in which it would be exposed to a sudden heavy load, causing the fabric to tear. The fabric is “loaded into the sample jaws, the jaws are then closed and the specimen is slit by pulling down the knife lever,” (Handout 3, pp. 4). 

The fourth strength method is the Random Tumble Pilling Tester, which shows the fabric’s resistance to pills. This is mainly performed on all types of woven and knitted apparel fabrics. There are four different chambers, shaped like cylinders that are lined with a thin cork. The fabric is placed inside and covers are placed on the chambers, which then begin to spin for thirty-minutes. The fabric is then graded using a certain scale, which tell the researchers the amount of pilling on the fabric.

The shrinkage method is the Dimensional Changes of Fabrics Accelerated, which compares the distances between length and width direction benchmarks before and after a programmed test. The process begins by drawing four dots in a diamond on the fabric, then measuring the distance and washing the fabric. Once the fabric is dried, the dots are re-measured and the shrinkage is calculated.

Overall, this tour was very informative and provided a view into the production of everyday materials.  These tests are crucial to the quality of the fabrics that are used in upholstery and apparel manufacturing.